Itsmaintainingfragrances like the Eaux at their affordable price (currently about $110 for 50 ml) because they have acommon, mainstream clean and fresh scent which will appeal to the masses. Ive raised the tobacco issue that you mentioned but, more than that, more than anything, I strongly believe that the changes are due to the aromachemical companies lobbying/funding IFRA to begin with. Not only has he mentioned it in past interviews, but I also have a vague, hazy memory from a few years ago that the Palais Royal manager (possibly Suleiman, his right hand man?) TKMaxx also had some Chanel(not exclusifs), loads of L'Artisan Parfumeur and Penhaligons. I should probably have made that clearer in the article. I also wonder sometimes how often maceration plays into fragrances we buy. SubType: EDP Spray. And please, call me Aliya, thats my name. xxx. I think its smart to re-sample some in the line while deciding which ones to buy before the price increase, particularly if your samples are current or recent. Serge Lutens Paris headquarters and store at the Palais Royal. The new bottle Chergui's performance is extremely disappointing on my skin. These last two moves also come with the benefit of higher prices for the company. Grain de Muscs Instagram page has a photo of the new packaging designif you want to see. -. Ever. Definitely worth reading for any vintage scent that one is considering purchasing. This allows the composition to take on its full character and reveal its truest, most seductive form. In terms of your question regarding the upcoming stores, I would have to assume they would make the bell jars available there, but it is merely my assumption and guess. And you never disturb me! *choke* I just snorted out some of my Diet Coke at that last line. The easiest way for people to get to know the Bell Jar scents if they couldnt travel to Paris (or didnt want to order blindly off one of the SL websites) was through the Vapo line, which is why the cancellation of that option will have an impact. Serge Lutens - Chergui Eau De Parfum Spray 100ml/3.3oz. Im afraid I know nothing about the Lutens bottle coding system or numbering. Category: Perfume. Two years ago, that makes sense. I usually do a search on a consumer site called idealo.de, which then lists the various prices of a particular fragrance and you can find the most amazing deals in Germany. I had 2 bottles of the original smaller bottles. ), As long as they're not Santal Majuscule or 5 o'clock gingembre then it wouldn't bother me. Chergui, a heady, irresistible and warm perfume from Serge Lutens' Collection noire. Now days Im lucky when Im able to buy a new bottle let alone back-ups. Any one of which could be identified as one of the bad 23 which would then make that natural oil unusable as well. You write beautifully and powerfully about Serge Lutens intellectual philosophy, symbolism and psycho-intellectual ethos, as well as its artistic and feminist meanings for you. Like chewing tin foil. 5 O clock just sold out as well as others. I also got the same experience with an emergency buy before discontinuation of Le Baiser du Dragon from Cartier, for which I still have a half 30ml bottle from 2007: the tenue is a laugh! Not even in the non-engraved versions if I had 550 and had to chose between one from Section dOr or a couple of good vintage favourites, I would most certainly go the vintage route. However, and please, I hope you dont take this the wrong way, my retail list is merely meant to be courtesy and to cover some of the bigger options out there, as opposed to being complete or geographically thorough. Finally, I would like to thankRaphael Schfer for his great kindness in alerting me to the many changes last week. When I obtained my exclusive interview with The Maestro some years ago, I had to go through several people at increasing hierarchical levels at Shiseidos corporate office; they actedlike fierce, zealously protective gate-keepers who guarded the door and served as intermediaries for any access to the elusive Serge. They more interest, sales of it, the higher the price follows suit. Thank you again! But if the recent lamentable eaudeparfumization of Chanel is an indication, probably not. Also underneath the address, on the box, theres a difference .I dont know what GLO. so does that mean that Vetiver oriental and de profundis will not be available as bell jar anymore?? Thanks for the Serge Lutens update. I do love Fille en Aiguilles though. ** Something like the current version of Opium, for example, would be an exception to this rule if one is a passionate fan of the original. Thank you so much Kaf for the heads up regarding Serge .Where would we be without you. Some of the Paris Exclusives are the most artistic or highly acclaimed fragrances in the brand, like, for example,De Profundis, Iris Silver Mist,La Myrrhe, or Tubereuse Criminelle. I believeits better to be forewarnedwith knowledge of a possibly major alterationthan for it to creep up unannounced and have it slap you in the face after youve spent a hefty chunk ofmoney. The longevity is above-average. I am sooo disappointed with the reformulated Ambre Sultan I just bought! I used to do that and I got my basket price,even though the price was currently higher. One of the Tom Fords at Notinos ,London, price has been slipping . With my horse I can go for a walk, just as you can with your dog, and all of us enjoy it. Or if you are looking for a super-affordable fragrance, try the . 4 sprays instead of one to merely get a vague scent? (I used to dream of Fourreau Noir or one of the other ones in that bottle since MMs celery note is a bit disconcerting to me.). Arent we (the knowledgeable, sophisticated niche consumer with a love for the original style of Lutens fragrance) the very people that you put you on the perfume map? Ive never commented but I read all your posts and I truly love and appreciate what you are doing a lot! Theres only 6 Fille en Aiguilles at Fragrancenet left. Thanks for your usual thoroughness! Xoxo. Ciaooo super article et trs bien crit comme toujours ! ago! Haha, rock on. In my opinion, there is definitely ISO E in Feminit du Bois and in at least one of its progeny, Violette du Bois. And, often, with significantly hyperbolic, BS press releases which insisted that said scents were allegedly the height of rarity, originality, and uniqueness. If I know Serge Lutens at all its because of them! And moving it to the exclusives is a price increase (if you count price per ml.). https://kafkaesqueblog.com/2014/07/07/part-ii-the-perfume-industry-eu-regulations/, That article covers a host of the problems facing the EU regulation, how the standards are set, potential biases therein, weirdly split divisions within the fragrance community (houses like Chanel vs. others, for example) and, MOST IMPORTANTLY, the utterly *FLAWED* scientific analysis that underlies all the recommendations to begin with. I am looking to get Annick Goutals Ambre Fetchie . Have you heard anything about it being reformulated? (Personally, I am far more conflicted and pessimistic about the change in Uncle Serges olfactory aesthetic over the last few years than I am about Shiseidos marketing decisions.). I couldnt wait to get it off.. Guess whose former executives go from those companies to sit on the board of IFRA? So, those are a few of my thoughts. And as always, the Italian website Raiders of the Lost Scent is indispensable vis--vis batch codes, so also the Lutens batch codes. Some scents will be moved from the export line to the exclusive line (i.e., bell jars); this makes the export line easier to handle, counter-space-wise. Perhaps we might think about other options? suggestions? Lutens is under new management, I would not be surprised if they decide to streamline the collection. I had to laugh at the comment about men wearing pink shirts and getting their eyebrows plucked. I just got my back-up of Serge Noire today and am honestly considering getting one more plus one each of Fille en Aiguilles and Ambre Sultan all due to the possible refomulation. Guess who benefits the most from IFRA/EU restrictions on natural ingredients, where everything from roses to orange, cloves, carnation, eugenol, myrrh, and everything else gets significant ceiling caps BUT BUT somehow, aromachemicals like ISO E Super(crappy) end up with a whopping 21% maximum? As said in your article, he has never discontinued a fragrance, so there is a possibility he changes them of his own will. I would cry of happiness if they rotated the export line, the bell jars are gorgeous but too rich for my blood. What surprises me is that while de profundis and vetiver orinental are pulled from bell jar line,some of the regular line turns into bell jar as well. Also to the aspect of reformulation, Chergui was my first SL purchase (as it seems to be for many people), I find the sadness people have with reformulations may be more psychological than anything. Serge Lutens essences always end up confessing to their deeds! By the way, I love your interview with Mr. Lutens so much! This allows the composition to take on its full character and reveal its truest, most seductive form. Ive purchased quite a few Lutens from Fragrance Net in the past and have always been happy. Sorry for the delay dratted computer problems! I have a back-up bottle of the original Chergui, Fleur de Orangiere, Fleur de Citroniere (sp), A La Nuit and a couple othersand I am glad I have them. Independent perfume brand, Gallivant, is to launch Accra the latest Snif's latest fragrance, Vow Factor, is available for pre-order after Interparfums have launched their latest fragrance for Jimmy Choo, Rose Bath & Body Works have launched a new limited edition fragrance for Patio is the first fragrance from Frances Valentine, the US fashion and 1999 - 2023, Basenotes International Ltd. BCM Box 1111, London, WC1N 3XX, United Kingdom. Instead, the Paris Exclusives seem to be where old fragrances will be parkedand removed from wide circulation. Thank you for keeping me and us updated on the availability issue and where some bottles may still be found. Well, you werent imagining the changes to Chergui, nor were you alone in your reaction, Julie. I enjoyed reading your thoughts on the various aspects of the situation, Alex, and Im glad that someone else worries more about the ongoing changes to Uncle Serges fragrance aesthetic than what Shiseido will do, business-wise. Use left/right arrows to navigate the slideshow or swipe left/right if using a mobile device. And they seem to genuinely value and care about him as aperson, not merely as an investment. Source: news.madame.lefigaro.fr, The point is, Shiseido is both fiercely protective and extremely controlling of every detail that impacts the image, business, and success of their longtime friendand colleague. . You know what Ive always yearned for but never been able to afford? Given the individuality and subjectivity of personal tastes, I dont think there is any one verdict, but you can find comments at the end of the De Profundis review and one or two here as well about the way that De Profundis has changed or peoples feelings about what they tried. Serge Lutens favours the use of premium grade raw materials of natural origin to make its fragrances, driven by the conviction that these alone can ensure full and complex evolution of the perfume on the skin. Quickly popping in to thank you for the post, informative and thorough. Steroids work like a miracle, but of course they have huge side effects too. Unfortunately in the US bell jars are nearly impossible to obtain, so Im told. Buy it Now. A number of the others are gone now too. Companies rarely make official announcements of their businessor perfume changes so, before I start, I want to give fullcredit to Jakub Piotrovicz of Persefume, Daniel Pescio, andJan Gonzalezfor uncovering the facts. Think of a chicken wish-bone in its shape; Shiseido is going high and low, simultaneously. Discordering, torturing raw materials to make them confess, Serge Lutens has not made a profession of it but an art! Scent name: Chergui. I have a rheumatic problem and when this flares up a course of steroids helps to dampen it down. Well, change is around everywhere, and not always for the best. The sorts of people who follow niche are the very people who are likely to have large amounts of fragrance and not be a Signature Scent wearer with only one bottle. The Travel Vapo which contains a 30 ml refill inside. To use, apply or spray* your chosen fragrance directly onto the skin and let it sit for a few minutes. Choosing a selection results in a full page refresh. As for Molecule, judging by their website and offerings, it seems to be a similar deal to what Lutens struck with Barneys in America a few years ago. I even used his images as a starting point for an Art History project since it tied in so well with the female cave art and rituals our teacher talked about so much (argh I miss that woman!). Are you F***ING kidding me? Second, how fascinating about the Moscow Lutens store. I picked up Arabie a few weeks ago from an online retailer that I suspected was holding older stock and was not disappointed. Please accept both my apologies and, if I may, if its not weird, a gentle virtual hug from me if I hurt your feelings in any way. All Export range, Arabie,Ambre Sultan and Eaux ones I did see in my local branch. I hope Serge Lutens never discontinues Fille en Aiguilles, Chene, Daim Blond, or 5 o'clock au Gingembre. A number of my readers are neweither to niche or to perfumery as a whole, and they may well want to take advantage of this news to get a bottle of one of the Lutens that theyve heard so much about. / 100mL SEALED $140.35 I simply could not understand why those particular ones were being pulled while others widely panned flops like the revoltingLaine de Verre or uninspiringLa Vierge de Fer, the polarizing Nuit de Cellophane or Datura Noir, and the hideously insipid, thin, watery, fresh, and clean Eaux Collection were remaining untouched. [Update: As these dates should hopefully make clear, Im again talking about a time frame from late 2014/early 2015 to now.]. Hear, hear at: What saddens me is that all these companies have either pandered to a bland and mediocre mass market, and/or they have priced themselves out of the reach of so many, myself included., One of the things that frustrated me last year was an industry trend Ive noticed whereby the effects of niche (and its pioneering, fun, exciting, exploratory style or its emphasis on high quality, more expensive materials) no longer trickled downwards to the mainstream, designer, commercial market. Item model number : 8011030. Sans blague, vraiment degu!! I am someone who has been sorely disappointed by the reformulations mostly Chergui (only because A la Nuit kept most of its profile but no longer lasts on the skin). (Fille en Aiguilles) is now SOLD OUT at Fragrancenet and Notnons .Twisted Lily has ONLY ONE item available and there are some at LuckyScent. Berikut adalah daftar kodepos Kecamatan Legok Kabupaten/Kota Tangerang Propinsi Banten And I love animals. The whole upward spiral of prices in perfumeland has been much on my mind this past year. I cannot tell you the number of private messages or comments I have received from people over the last few years, saying that they tried Chergui because of all the acclaim or because thats what someone on Basenotes recommended to them as a newbie to the brand, but, once they tried it, they ended up thinking: its terrible, I cant see what all the fuss is about, or, in one case, it put me off trying anything elsefrom the brand. Chergui was released in 2001 and it had already changed by the time I reviewed it, but the version that I last smelt in a store was completely different even from what I had written about: it was excessively powdery and synthetic with a deluge of soapy clean musk, an immediate hit and more elevated amountof ISO E, and significantly weaker hay and tobacco aspects. Believe me, I know that Russia has a wide range of niche brands and has had them for a while. They extend beyond changes to the mere look of bottles or their pricing and entail a whole reshuffling and revamping of the many lines or collections within the brand, thereby signifying a new marketing and business approach by Shiseido which took over the full management of the Serge Lutens brand a year ago. Ah yes, I forgot about these Private Blends. Thank you Kafka for this thorough review of this confusing remaking of the brand. I need some time to make sense of it all. I also think the association with Shiseido is more natural and they are there for mostly good reasons. (Again, they are also sold at the aforementioned sites and with the 80% price increase for the US, but generally nowhere else on earth, not London, not Sydney, not Hong Kong, nowhere.) Technically, Nombre Noir doesnt count because that was a Shiseido release, not a Serge Lutens one. Its a shame the Exclusives collection will be overlooked unless Im misreading things. No scent from Serge Lutens has ever been discontinued, technically. Also, people who purchased Arabie after my review last Fall all seemed very pleased with it; anychanges since its original launch date in 2000 havent been of the sort to disappoint people. Serge Lutens boutique was opened 2 years ago in Moscow and Mr. Lutens even graced the opening with his presence. The special limited-edition versions of some of the bell jars. I have also dug up various SL samples to smell if I need to buy anything else before inevitable increase in price. What is there is this set of numbers then a letter impressed on the box and etched on the bottle .They follow, 62110M . They just had it and boop, now they dont. Plus, fashion houses typically include their exclusive lines in their high-end luxury boutiques, like Hermes, Dior, and the like. Director of beauty in all its forms, he initiated many revolutions. Now, theyre merely relieving some of the pressures of running the business, while trying to expand the brand. As for our bottle of Chergui, it will be cherished for as long as it lasts. Product Dimensions : 9.84 x 7.87 x 3.94 inches; 6.88 Ounces. Ill be looking forward to your thought about Bogues MEM, and especially the new Dryad from Papillon! In such a pushy, extroverted culture such as our own, I think its interesting to find a medium which deals with the less sexy qualities of femininity than those being pushed by most perfume houses today, even niche ones! Kode Pos Neglasari. Isnt it utterly depressing that we the knowledgeable, sophisticated niche consumer with a love for the original style of Lutens fragrance are no longer the target market? etc.). Even in french. By submitting my details on the form, I confirm that I want to receive personalised email communications with information and promotions about Serge Lutens' products, according to my preferences. There is much food for thought here. A warm hug to you, sweet Jillie Cat. Will you or have you bought some back-up bottles? CLAIR DE MUSC EDP 50ML. Is this a relatively new thing? 15 hari retur Kesehatan & Kecantikan Pengharum & Parfum You had briefly mentioned in passing some concern with him, mixed in with the delight. What's a Travel Spray? Thank you. Well, of course I wouldnt bother making a list of all Russian retail boutiques. that is a trend that frustrated and disillusioned me enormously last year. Recently Tom Ford Private Collection and quite a few Bond No9. I know that Bas de Soie has been discontinued already. :\. I got it last year. I suspect that it will be a middle-tier line in its price, somewhere between the export and the Section dOr ones. Phew. Lets hope this new middle-tier line has fragrances that are between these various extremes, both in price and olfactory aesthetic. I am pretty well covered for my Serge Essentials most were bought several years ago, and I bought back-ups for Chergui & Daim Blond. . Kode Pos Legok. Even if I could buy a new bottle at the moment, it would not be Milk Teeth! . According to the very helpful lady in Liberty's today, SL are reducing the number of fragrances that they, Liberty's, will be able to offer. It seems not, and that theyll be pulled from the bell jar line. Whatever the occasion, offering a "Serge Lutens" gift is the assurance of a style, a signature. told one of my readers quite bluntly that all the Lutens fragrances had been reformulated except for one (at least at that time): Serge Noire, the fragrance that Serge Lutens made for himself and the only one that hesupposedly wears himself from time to time. The milk teeth/baby teeth is awful, btw. *snort* Pandering to the mass market tastes and to aspirational associations without actually working to deliver GOOD quality with the BEST materials and making something other than the latest La Vie Est Belle clone. Fminit du Bois 1992. Do you find Ambre Sultan very powdery? I remember a wealthy friend with finicky, highly sophisticated tastes positively GUSHING about the special bottles after seeing them in the Paris store, but even HE thought they were too expensive to buy and he generally spends quite freely on luxury items. Information Brand Serge Lutens Series Label Chergui. Thanks for this. In order to be more democratic about accessibility and price, Serge Lutens has often permitted several of the Paris Exclusives to be available in the Vapo line. ASIN : B07C29W9PR. We wear it sparingly, only during the coldest of winter, so we can eke a few more years out of it, even with the two of us sharing it. Oh, your poor, hungry German! I hope it's around as long as I'm aroundit's incredible IMO. How does Milk Teeth or Baby Teeth (shudder) sound to you? . Quel horreur. Thank you for this review. If Shiseido is now stepping forward in a greater, more active capacity, it may well be because Oncle Serge is getting on in years and doesnt have the most robust health, but hes still the creative director and makes the olfactory decisions. Perhaps Serge himself wanted the change to the fragrances, make them more modern and contemporary. Check out our serge lutens chergui selection for the very best in unique or custom, handmade pieces from our fragrances shops. SHIPPED WITHIN 48 HOURS. Carrots? No word if export range or boutique, I am thinking export? Item# 326432 31 reviews | Add Review Free Shipping (Orders Over $59) Serge Lutens Chergui unisex Eau De Parfum Spray 0.27 oz Travel Spray by Serge Lutens (View All) Original bottle not included & travel spray color may vary Select Size OZ to ML converter eau de parfum spray 0.27 oz travel spray $24.99 The labels look cheap and since they are VERY tall and flat it seem likely they will be easily knocked over too, Pingback: Serge Lutens Sarrasins: Night Jasmine | Life in a Cold Climate, Many thanks for the detailed info and apologies for being late to the party! Its being notified, youll get emailed when it comes back in for $88. LOL at your first reaction upon reading about Dent de Lait! 205 / 100 ml. Denyse Beaulieu of Grain de Musc (who has close contacts with the Lutens people) reported it would not remain.
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